Figure 1: Rick Owens Logo [1]
Rick Owens 来自于美国设计师，Richard Saturnino Owens (Known as Rick Owens)的同名品牌。1994年创建于Los Angles，之后总部搬迁至巴黎。旗下有Rick Owens, Rick Owens DRKSHDW等很受年轻人青睐的label。品牌主线走暗黑，哥特式极简风格。

了解一个品牌的风格和内涵，我们首先从设计师背景着手，谈到品牌壮大恪守的设计理念，拿出经典款做分析。最后用所用到的英语词汇和用法收尾。基本不会在文章内附英语解释，全部在文尾。

Rick Owens 并不是科班出身, 且不说他读了两年OTIS就drop out，也并不是大纽约的FIT和Parsons等美国人才辈出的设计学校，不是非常实用完全以设计oriented学校出来的学生。Rick Owens在他的一次采访中有表达过他对OTIS的Experimental Design教学不太适应（Designing with unorthodox materials），过于松垮，不贴近实际。Drop out以后摸爬滚打，在洛杉矶发家。

关于Rick Owens的人格。在他的一篇采访中，他说他极度不善于社交，很一根筋。十个设计师九个gay，而Rick Owens更是把性取向广泛到有点pansexual（泛性恋）。年轻时大部分和男人date最后却娶了一个老婆。外面的人质疑他，然而他说，爱就爱了，娶就娶了，和他的品牌精神一样，尤为孤傲，霸气，反叛。
部分采访片段节选（英文非常易懂）
It’s hard for somebody to live with me, I think. I’m very inflexible and that can’t be easy. There are times when I put up a wall and I say, “This is what I want and I’m not going to debate it or negotiate it,(这就是我想要的，并且我不想要任何讨论或者协商)” and I know that that must be unpleasant. If I were living with me, I would get sick and tired of it always being about Rick Owens this, Rick Owens that.

关于性向：
I’ve always been really open about this because it’s very easy for someone to say, “I used to see him in sex clubs in the ’80s and now he pretends he’s straight?” So the idea of pretending I’m straight is ridiculous. I need to get that out of the way. The other thing is that I love the idea that there are bad role models and good role models. Presumably, I would be a bad role model but I think for someone… [3]

好吧，和众多知名设计师一样，Rick Owens也是睡男模睡腻了最后最后居然娶了个老婆。

所以总是有路人说Rick Owens的衣服，既有禁欲也可以极简的放荡，袖口，领口等地方很多时候的不拘小节，又可以用黑色给人以沉重的压抑感和未来感。

那我们就来看几个Rick Owens经典爆款吧。

Figure 2 Rick Owens Menswear[7]

Figure 3 Rick Owens Menswear[7]

Figure 4: Rick Owens Pants [7]

浓浓的金属感未来风。叛逆感。其实亚洲很多潮牌都有RO的影子，例如BAPE，EVISU什么的，近来有个新牌子，offwhite非常火。HK门店刚开。都有自己的风格的同时并带有RO的影子.

The men's Rick Owens edit is characterised by metallic accents fused with rich materials in opulent, subdued tones for a tough-edged sumptuousness. (Rick Owens男士的代表风格是一种为硬线条感奢华服务的金属口味，充斥着带有丰裕的，沉默的腔调)Embrace an unconventional refinement through these pieces, which are crafted in laid-back forms that play with dimension and cut. [4]

男装风格：Laid-back(慵懒的)，grunge-luxe(一种低劣的奢华)

再来看看女装：

Figure 5:Rick Owens Womenswear

发现了吗。Rick Owens的黑，迷幻，深邃。Rick Owens 对于peculiar dark monochromatic palette[xiv][xv]深刻到可怕。好多女装都给我一种futuristic spacewomen look.

Figure 6: 2016 New［6］

如上图，Rick Owens 也不仅仅只会在黑色上做文章。

这套搭配更是摒弃了continuity of peculiar[vi]darkness. The garments featured mint green[ix] creamy milk and beige, brown, bright US penitentiary orange[x] and irresistible black.
The trousers were mainly oversized palazzo[xii] trousers and culottes[xiii] featuring enchanting effects around the waist. The jumpsuit[xi] gave the models a futuristic spacewoman look, presenting high-waist silhouettes[xvi] and oversized top parts with elaborated cowl necks.［6］

说明Rick Owens不仅能做暗黑，也能在其基础发展其他白，灰，米色的配色。总体颜色很plain，需要很有气质的人驾驭。不需要你多美多帅，但是气场必须能驾驭。此外Rick Owens的衣服对身材要求不高，御用模特几乎都是瘦子。感觉很多极简风格瘦子模特穿出来最有感觉。

Rick Owens 总评：

Faithful disciples.
Hauntingly, futuristic, and metallic black.
It’s all about darkness and mutations with it.

品牌创造者够叛逆，够禁欲.

分享一段巴黎时装周Rick Owens到场观看者的dress code。
Kitted out[i]for the occasion, attendees gathered outside the show, all dressed in an homage to [ii] Owens’ signature style. As you might expect, muted hues[iii] and black dominated the assembly, as well as a heavy dose[v] of draping[iv] garments[vii] and black fingernails.［2］

最后谈到价格问题。Rick Owens只在HK有专柜，在北京上海大IT有售，由于是一线潮牌，所以价格国内反正是上天了，一件经典jacket都是2000刀＋的。设计感强的夹克和一个一线包包价格差不多了。Rick Owens最有名的是他的鞋子和七分裤，非常amazing。其实虽说他的风格很不错，对于拮据的想穿出自己风格的潮牌热爱者，Alexander Wang, Alexander McQueen, Vetement , Offwhite，Evisu等品牌都有Rick Owens的影子，（这些更亲民的会在后面的潮牌刊cover，）都可以选择。如果想要买到Rick Owens的便宜的呢就要关注其官方网站，经常有非常大的折扣（2，3折这样。）这个时候找靠谱的EU代购是比较好的。反正国内，是贵死了。

English tips: （English-English translation resources: Collins, Merriam-Webster.）

［i］Kitted out for
To provide with(a kit of personal effects and necessities) 装备

［ii］In an homage to 致敬

[iii] muted hues 柔软的配色

［iv］draping garments
Drape: if you drape a piece of cloth somewere you place it there so that it hangs down in a casual and graceful way. 披肩

［v］a heavy dose of
大量的意思。可以用来说一剂强力的什么

[vi] peculiar darkness
Peculiar: Strange ,unusual , sometimes in an unpleasant way.
诡异的黑色

[vii] garments
A garment is a piece of clothing.
服装

[ix] mint green
薄荷绿

[x] penitentiary
a prison
监狱所

[xi] jumpsuit
A piece of clothing in the form of a top and trousers in one continuous piece
连身衣裤

[xii] palazzo
a palatial building, especially in Italy.
宫殿

[xiii] culottes
knee-length women’s shorts that look like a skirt
女裙裤

[xiv]monochromatic
(light or electromagnetic radiation) having only one wavelength
单色的

[xv]Palette
a palette is a flat piece of wood or plastic on which an artist mixes paints
调色盘

[xvi] Silhouettes
The solid dark shape that you see when someone or something has a bright light or pale background behind them.
黑色轮廓，侧影，剪影

本文除了引用部分，全部由自己码字，转载请联系作者。Thanks a bunch！
All by Owen

July 9th. 2016

References（就不用IEEE了):

[1] http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/06/12/adidas-and-rick-owens-announce-sneaker-collaboration/
[2] http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/03/06/rick-owens-fw16-street-style/
[3] http://the-talks.com/interview/rick-owens/
[4] http://www.farfetch.com/au/shopping/men/rick-owens/items.aspx
[5] http://www.farfetch.com/au/shopping/men/rick-owens-two-tone-cardigan-item-11506693.aspx?storeid=9843&from=1&rnkdmnly=1&ffref=lp_pic_27_2_
[6] https://www.hervia.com/blog/rick-owens-womenswear-aw16-paris-fashion-week/
[7] https://www.rickowens.eu/en/CA/women/section/all?f%5Bcategories%5D%5B%5D=65&utf8=%E2%9C%93
[8] https://www.rickowens.eu/en/CA/shop-men

文章比较小众。开心就好😆